Carwell Caves

1912

18 November 1912
Nature's Subterranean Handiwork.
The Caves Near Rylstone. A Tour of Inspection.
(By "G.N.")
About eight miles to the south-west of Rylstone exists a range of heights, at the foot of which flows - when it does flow - a small stream, called Carwell Creek. Rylstone itself stands on the Cudgegong, about 32 miles south-east of Mudgee. The surrounding district is very rich in mineral wealth, but this particular range is composed almost entirely of limestone or ironstone, and in most places these minerals are found co-existent. Each hill at some remote time must have been turned topsy-turvy by a great natural force, and the outer edge of the limestone strata in its revolution has been broken and scattered about in a most promiscuous manner, giving each the appearance of a boy's sandhill, the top of which he has disgustingly kicked off. This topling is most evident in places around the base of several of the rises.
A position distant two miles from the six mile peg on the road, which may be attained by following the gully through what is locally known as "Marble Gulch," constitutes the centre of operations. At this point, through the otherwise dry bed of the stream breaks forth a spring whose waters are strongly impregnated with lime, but which soon dries up before flowing any great distance along the watercourse. Surrounding this central point, which has its existence in an alluvial flat deposited at some far-distant time, is a group or cluster of hills, partly composed as stated above of a form of limestone - black marble - which contains, however, insufficient white to rival the famous black marble of Belgium. On the left, upon a rise, is a small cottage occupied by one Cuthbert Thew, well-known resident about these parts, and forming a background to his habitation is a rounded, hummock, through which the limestone area passes. This geological formation continues across the creek to the front of the residence, and then follows the gully, through which one must pass to reach the alluvial flat, swerving sometimes to the right, sometimes to the left, but ever approaching the main road. Accompanying this, at times either in parallel beds, crossing, self-existent, or even ekeing out only to reappear again, is a limestone belt, and both forms of stone have been worked to some little extent. At present marble is quarried, but the ironstone at this end of the bed - for it is apparently the same deposit which exists to the south-east of Rylstone is not mined in any appreciable quantity. It is the limestone area, however, which is of special interest, and it is the duty of this account to describe certain features - caves - which exist therein.
These caves are four in number although it is supposed that others exist in neighboring hills where no opening is apparent. The central point of operations is easily reached, even in a vehicle, but the road is difficult, and hard to negotiate. About halfway down what is familiarly called "Archer's Hill" a gate opens upon the left, and if the track through the paddocks be followed for about three miles, it will open out upon the flat before mentioned. To the west and to the north bush paths diverge to the localities of interest. As far as can be ascertained, these caves have never before been explored in detail and described, and the names herein given were simply suggested to me by some unmistakable aspect which surrounds each.
To the east of the central point is the position of the first cave. From the camp a track passes in front of the cottage, skirting the base of the rise which forms the background to the residence, and in general follows in a plane parallel to the dry bed of the creek. The entrance to the cave is quite easily recognised. It is distant about 600 yards from the central point, and occupies a position on the northern slope near the eastern extremity on the rise, which forms the before mentioned background. At this point is a large cliff face of black marble, and it is near the base of this that the opening exists. The entrance is not very difficult to find, but is one which might easily be overlooked. The opening does not appear very secure, and the tunnel, whose general direction is at first south, is entered by assuming a crouching position. Not many feet onward the first difficulty is experienced, in the shape of a sudden drop, which, however, is not more than about four or five feet, and can be easily accomplished. The floor of the tunnel, which is, in general, rocky, dips towards the interior. The roof is almost vaulted, coming to a point in the centre, and both walls, roof, and floor are of a distinct black marble, the former two being covered with a soft coating of carbonate of lime, which gives the appearance of sprinkled flour. The roof is rather low, but sufffciently high to give an average-sized person the privilege of walking upright. Throughout the whole passage there is a continual descent, and the journey into the bowels of the hill into an intense, darkness which seems scarcely dissipated by the feeble candlelight, is begun. The roof is decorated here and there by small clusters of equally small stalactites, which are not of the same white character usually associated with the idea of a limestone deposit, but appear dirty (grey) due most probably to the denuded character of the floor, which consists of a sand-like, material, produced by the gradual decay of the ironstone and limestone, which are here associated one with the other. The passage turns slightly to the left, it is broken by an opening and then towards the right, expanding for the first time into a long-looked-for cave. The floor, which here dips, is covered principally with the same red mass of denuded ironstone and limestone which was before met with in the tunnel, it is, however, compact, sodden with moisture, slippery and sticky, and every advantage must be taken to keep a footing on the slimy floor. The roof still partakes of a distinct valuted character, and although the cave is large, few stalactites exist. Progress is completely blocked by the "Stygian Pool," a body of water, clear, cold and fresh. Viewed in the light of a candle the whole spectacle is weird in the extreme, and it is made more spectral by the invisibility of the opposite shore. The lake seems clothed in mystery, but its apparent mystical propensities are banished when a light is used. Then the scene's laid bare to the disturber of this complete solemnity. In several places the water possesses the strained appearance common to depth, and in the centre of the pool's bed appears to be another opening, apparently leading onward, to other points of interest at lower levels, but completely protected from the gaze of visitors. The passage is continued through an opening along which it is impossible, to proceed, for the water is very deep, and although it is so clear we can not catch sight of the bed. Thus the path which for a short distance lies to the right of this lake, and upon which visitors must stand to view the wonder is now completely blocked. In the wall of the tunnel along which the water stretches, there is a break which connects through the opposite wall of the cave containing this mystical pool for the light made to shine along the passage is reflected through this unseen opening. The opposite wall of the cave forms a frowning shape of rock against which the water laps each tune its surface is in any way disturbed. Apparently there is an opening under this shelf communicating with the passage that lies parallel to the cave of the "Stygian Pool" for its waters here again use to the surface At the back and near the opening of this cave expansion across a huge black marble mass, and quite near the roof of the cave just visited exists another opening through which it is necessary to wriggle there being only a small space of a little over one foot between the floor and the roof of the tunnel to be negotiated. This however proves to be a dead end. Progress is now made along the tunnel which was previously noticed to the left. This passage still sloping downwards, expands into two cave like openings the walls of which contract towards the centre only to he levelled again. The floor of both is covered with the same denuded ironstone and limestone formations so common to these caves and is very damp and sticky. To the right is the above-mentioned pool of water which communicates under the rock shelf with the "Stygian Pool." The roof still continues low and is studded here and there with stalactites that sparkle and glisten in the light of the candles. In the centre of the floor of the first expansion is a shallow opening containing cave water, and beyond in the second, a hummock sheet at one time formed the base of a huge stalagmite towards this hummock the floor slopes but beyond it again it rises towards the opening through which procedure is made. To the right and left other openings occur. The former which is very narrow but large enough for an average man to wriggle through opens over a ledge of rock. It expands to such an extent that a person may stand upright but beyond a large number of bats which circle to protecting nooks as soon as they are disturbed this feature is quite uninteresting. The passage to the left opens into another tunnel, but this is part of the return journey and may be left till then to describe. The floor ascends, and now the first real difficulty presents itself. The opening is so narrow that it is necessary to lie down and wriggle through. Inside there is a drop of some four feet, but the view to be gained is worth the energy expended in negotiating such a difficult entrance. The spectacle is beautiful. Stalactites and stalagmites exist in all manner of fantastic shapes and arrangements quite near the narrow passage. The first of the wonders is the “Weeping Willow.” This appears as at one portion of a diminutive willow has been suddenly turned into a mass of white crystals which shine forth in all their splendour as soon as the light is allowed to shine upon them. The magnesium lamp makes the view very fine. Each small branch is now separate throughout its whole length, but towards its base it unites with others altogether making quite a solid mass. Conceive the upper branches of a small willow separated from the tree, arranged upon the wall in the form of an overhead canopy, and suddenly crystalised. Such is the wonder. Below this shape is a hummock or rock whose rounded surface is presented to view, across which the water contiming the carbonate of lime has trickled and crystalised. This deposit is arranged in a most charming way and has the appearance of ripple marks upon a sea beach. Stalagmites where the floor approaches close to the roof - for everything is upon a small scale - are arranged in great profusion. At the extreme end of this tunnel, for it can scarcely be called a cave, exists the most beautiful sight in the whole of this underground series, “The Fairy Pool.” Truly it is mag-nificent. The floor, which is very rocky and covered with the same slippery ironstone mass, rises to almost meet the roof. A little beyond is a shelf hollowed out in such a way that it might contain water. The water is as clear as glass - in fact it would appear as glass until the surface is agitated. The floor of this small wonder is coated with limestone, crystals which exist too, in great quantities and of a most beautiful glossy variety, at the surface of the water. Little snow white stalactites of a magnificent order hang down from the low flat roof towards the water, the extremeties of which all seem bent on pointing out the beauty of the scene which lies beneath. The rock in front of this overhead pool is coated with limestone and terraced in a similar way to the hummock below the willows. The surplus water from the “Fairy Pool” slowly trickling over its surface has deposited as it evaporated the limestone with which it is impregnated. Returning along this tunnel another opening appears to the light and just within the entrance to this drive is another marvel of Nature. The Canopy. This may be best likened to the overhead tapestry which adorned the old fashioned pulpit in the Scotch kirk from which John Knox hurled his denunciation against the throne of Scotland. It is a beautiful representation. The roof of this tunnel is vaulted and nearer the entrance, stands the great counter-part of a cluster of hills - hummock upon hummock of rock coated with limestone. To return to the main tunnel, instead of wriggling through the narrow opening in which entrance is gained to the 'Fairy Pool' one may pass into the second expansion through a narrow fissure in the floor of the tunnel which has just been visited. This is the same opening which was noticed upon the left when the journey was first made into the tunnel contains the “Weeping Willow” and the “Fairy Pool”. This completes the visit to these rooms of wonder, and soon the softened daylight is welcomed. The subterranean lake, the "Fairy Pool," "The Canopy," and the "Weeping Willows" lend to this series of underground tunnels and caverns a charm and beauty better imagined than described. And, although the whole is short, yet the view is worth the expenditure of time and energy. Even the mystic surroundings of the "Stygian Pool" repays a visitor for the trouble taken to visit an area so wild1 .

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